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Cape Verde review

30 May 2007 - The Press Association - Georgina Rodgers

"Cape Verde. Where's that? Never heard of it," muttered the shop assistant, looking blankly at our boarding cards.

We were in Boots doing a typical airport rush-buy, dashing around trying to find the nearest factor 25 suncream and bottled water.

"It's a secret", I laughed.

Indeed, the ten islands which make up the Portuguese colony of Cape Verde off the coast of West Africa are still relatively unknown - but since the launch of the first direct flight to the island of Sal last year, it may not stay that way for long.

Just five and a half hours flight away, the islands of Cape Verde provide the perfect antidote to the UK weather - they rarely see rain and enjoy temperatures hovering between 25 and 35 degrees all year round.

The islands are peppered like a jewelled necklace about 480 kilometres off the coast of Senegal. Having gained independence in 1975, the culture of Cape Verde reflects its mixed African and Portuguese roots.

The area has been described as the "new Canaries" or even "the new Maldives" - and I was bursting with excitement as we left snow behind at Gatwick.

However, when we began our descent into the airport on Sal, the island below appeared to be a giant mudflat. Stripped of vegetation by the strong Atlantic winds, the landscape seemed to be bare and brown.

"It looks like Mars," said my companion as we touched down on the dusty runway.

Fortunately our worries were soon expelled when we arrived in Santa Maria, in the southernmost tip of the island, and I saw the miles of powdery white sand and clear blue-green waters.

The up-and-coming town is the main tourist trap for the islands, with a string of luxury hotels peppered along the eight kilometres of unspoilt beach.

We stayed at the Belorizonte hotel, which boasts two swimming pools, villa-style bungalows set in the gardens and more expensive suites within the hotel's main building.

There was a wide range of entertainment each day led by the hotel's entertainment team, and on a few mornings I found myself standing in the sand and wiggling my hips to a Cape Verdean dance. My companion, meanwhile, bonded with some other European guests during a daily Brazilian-style beach football game.

The island's main selling point for sports-lovers has to be the continual wind, which provides ideal conditions for wind and kitesurfing. Some parts of the coast, such as Punta Preta around the headland, boast world-class conditions for professionals and beginners, who can hire equipment and learn the ropes under the tuition of local instructors.

Soon I imagine the other islands will see similar facilities - resort complexes are springing up on most of them, their investors certain that warm winters will continue to attract sun-starved Europeans to their shores.

We stayed on a bed and breakfast basis. While the restaurants weren't as numerous as a typical European beach resort, the locals were always welcoming and the food, revolving around fish dishes, was delicious and inexpensive.

The local dish, Cachupa, a slow boiled stew of corn, beans, vegetables, spices and marinated pork or tuna, is definitely worth a try - apparently some of the natives eat it cold for breakfast. We sampled some at the Cultural Cafe on Santa Maria's main square and it was very enjoyable.

Our favourite restaurant was Movida, a local eatery where we feasted one evening on fresh lobster for less than £15 per head. We also visited the smart Leonardo Cafe twice and ate delicious pizzas from a wood-burning oven.

Like many things in life, Cape Verde is said to be the sum of its parts and trips to other islands are possible by plane or boat. We jumped on a small propeller plane for 45 minutes to visit Sao Vicente.

With its large natural harbour, the capital Mindelo was once a rich port - this is why the island has such a vibrant cultural feel.

Mindelo is the centre of the country's musical life as the home of the most famous Cape Verdean singer Cesaria Evora, the barefoot diva. As we wandered around the streets the soft sound of the bluesy Morna and the sensual Funana floated past us. The atmosphere here is blissfully laidback and locals holler the catchphrase, "Cape Verde - no stress."

Our half-day trip around the island included a trip to Monte Verde, the highest place on Sao Vicente at 750 metres. The amazing views from here are of dark craggy peaks and the island of Santa Antao. We also visited a local fishing village and saw the fishermen haul their colourful boats onto the sand and celebrate their catches.

We stayed for a night at the four-star Foya Branca resort, a stunning African-inspired hotel overlooking the sandy beach of Sao Pedro. The hotel is situated in well-tended gardens with two swimming pools, a gym, diving school and a range of sports facilities. There is a regular bus service to Mindelo - so guests can enjoy the best of both worlds.

Also on our itinerary was a day-trip to Boa Vista - just a short 15-minute hop by plane. It is predicted that this island will see the most development over the coming months - with the arrival in July of a direct flight from Gatwick.

Much like Sal, Boa Vista hasn't seen a drop of rain in three years and the island is arid and dry. Clinging onto the seat in the back of of my open top Jeep (or aluguer as they are called locally) I felt as if I was crossing a desert landscape.

Less developed than Sal, the island is unmistakably African - while its capital Sal Rei has a uniquely quiet charm. Its beaches have stunning sand dunes, in particular the spectacular Praia de Santa Monica beach. According to our guide, turtles are often found nesting on the white sands and whales can be seen in the distance.

We ran out of time to see more of the islands - but fellow visitors waxed lyrical about a visit to the towering volcano of Fogo and the lush green landscapes of San Antao.

Cape Verde is being hailed as the big new destination for 2007 and on the strength of my visit, that assessment is spot on. You'd better get there before the masses do.

TRAVEL FACTS

:: Georgina Rodgers travelled with specialist tour operator The Cape Verde Experience, part of Serenity Holidays, which offers seven nights' hotel B&B stays on Sal from £549 per person, including return flights and transfers.

From July 2007, direct flights also go into the island of Boa Vista and seven-night stays start at £799 per person, including return flights and transfers (both based on B&B in a three-star hotel). Island-hopping itineraries, with seven nights' B&B start at £1,275.

On Manchester departures, supplements are £15 per person.

Cape Verde Experience reservations: 0845 330 2071 and www.capeverdeexperience.co.uk

 
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The Cape Verde Experience is a trade name of Serenity Holidays, a fully bonded operator under ATOL 1866 and a member of ABTA, IATA and AITO.

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